Reactivity, Rewired
Walk past triggers, not away.
Our method turns triggers into training reps. We replace explosive rehearsals with early redirection, movement, and clear communication—so your dog learns to choose you over the chaos.
Identify the Trigger
Before anything we have to truly understand what sets our dog off.
Is it: Dogs, People, Environments/Places.
(Environment can even be as simple as a place where your dog previously reacted and now even though the trigger isn't there anymore, the location itself is now a trigger- where they are expecting something to potentially happen.)
Why this matters: We can't change what we don't define.
Understand the Reinforcement
We should always ask two questions after assessing what the dogs triggers are.
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What's the reinforcement history? (What's kept this behavior going)
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What's reinforcing right now?
Two Reinforcement Paths:
Operant (External):
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Example: Dog gets stressed, handler soothes, dog blows up, trigger leaves or handler takes the dog away.
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Now the dog learns this behavior work when wanting to remove a trigger.
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Takeaway: The environment or handlers actions are reinforcing the behavior.
Internal (Self Rewarding)
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This can be common in working dogs- even if they may be anxious or stressed.
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They are often bred to enjoy the stress response when it's paired with aggression; the act of reacting feels good.
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Meaning: The behavior reinforces itself.
Why its easier/harder:
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Operant is usually easier: remove the reinforcement.
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Internal is harder: even if you catch many precursors, you’ll inevitably miss some.
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Those random “hits” make the behavior more addictive (variable reinforcement).
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Variable Reinforcement - When a behavior only sometimes gets a payoff, it gets stronger- because the dog can’t predict when the “win” will happen (think of a slot machine).
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Without other proper outlets, those spikes of adrenaline become the dog’s outlet.
Management Regime
Phase 1: Avoid Rehearsal
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Avoid all triggers to stop the behavior from being practiced.
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Remember: Places can be triggers due to association.
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This may mean no neighborhood walks for now if they tend to trigger reactivity.
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Objective: Zero rehearsals while we teach replacement skills.
Build Your Tools Away From Triggers
Phase 2
Teach redirection/disengagement in easy spaces first (e.g., backyard) until you can get sustained attention.
"Lets Go" Protocol (Practice in neutral environment)
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Have a clear marker/cue: “Let’s Go.”
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Turn and walk away, give your leash cue (“pop pop”) as you’re moving.
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When the dog follows, feed/reward.
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If they look at you while walking, reward every time.
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You want them eager to focus on you and find you as the better source of engagment.
Moving focus is easier than stationary focus.
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Start with attention while moving.
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It's easier for a dog to stay engaged with you while moving, movement also relieves stress.
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Later, you can start to add brief pauses; if the dog stays engaged, mark/reward and build duration gradually.
Critical Things to Remember
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Do not let “Let’s Go” become a predictor of triggers. Practice it in non‑triggering settings. So they don't learn to associate that marker as a sign that a trigger is near.
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It's important to practice the leash “pop pop” while moving until the dog understands it before introducing triggers. Otherwise the dog may pair the leash cue with the trigger in turn creating more stress/avoidance.
Once your dog truly understands this new command and you feel ready for more, begin with non-triggering distractions (interesting but safe) to rehearse redirecting back to you and to build positive associations with engaging with the handler.
Examples: Having someone your dog loves standing near them as you walk by, having someone hold out a treat, and as soon as you give your "Lets Go" cue the person closes their hand so the food is no longer available. Pop Pop on the leash, walk away, dog follows, pay. Start small and build.
Reintroducing Triggers in Control
Phase 3
A lot of times, you'll see a trainer take the leash and have fewer issues. There are a few reasons for this, one main one is often due to calmer handling. At this point you may have had several encounters with your dog reacting and now you almost anticipate the reaction. Your dog can smell your stress changes through your sweat and breath while also reading your body posture down to your breathing rate. This is why its important to realize that you can actually become a part of the trigger picture. If your heart rate spikes, your dog may brace for the trigger before they even notice it. This is why building your confidence, skill, and consistency is such an important part.
Setups and Timing:
Use Controlled Triggers
Having controlled triggers keeps you from reinforcing the behavior if the trigger leaves. We don't want the explosion to "work".
Short Fuse or Slow Burn
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Some dogs have a very short fuse when it comes to what sets them off. They may see the trigger and immediately respond. Others may take more time to build up to reacting, like a slow burn.
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This is why it's important to know your dogs body language. Then we can watch the pre-reactivity cues they may be giving. (Stiffening, fixating, glancing around nervously, whites of eyes showing, tails tucked or alert, weight distributed on the front or back paws) There are a lot of different body cues your dog may show before they react and that's when we are called to action!
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As soon as we see these signs start with what you've practiced. Move and Reward.
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Redirect at awareness not at full reaction.
Green Light
Unprompted focus on you when the dog sees a trigger = it’s sinking in; the dog is in a better headspace.
If Your Dog Reacts
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Mark the reaction with your conditioned punisher: “NO.”
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This signal lets you use less intense physical correction; the marker does some of the work.
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Stay calm: “No. Heel.” Turn and move, but do not fully leave the area (exiting can still reinforce the outburst). Reward when focus returns to you.
Correction Intensity
Temperament Notes
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Must be firm enough that the dog accepts it as non‑negotiable.
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Must not shut the dog down in that environment.
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Anxious dogs: Can be corrected without making anxiety worse; working through it with full information can make them stronger.
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Fearful dogs: Still need corrections, but more gently and paired with confidence building right after.
Provide Healthy Outlets
Understanding what your dogs genetic needs are is so important when it comes to reactivity. Engage and play with them in new ways to learn what they really love. Tug, chase, lure- once you find out, start to establish ground rules for play (start/stop, when to let go).
Knowing these allows you to introduce mild stressors while the dog is getting value from something they love. This can be an incredible tool for channeling arousal appropriately.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
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Using “Let’s Go” only around triggers (it becomes a trigger predictor).
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Leaving the trigger right after an outburst (reinforces the reaction).
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Tight leash and tense handling that predict triggers (classical conditioning).
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Coaxing/talking that keeps the cycle going (“It’s okay…” → dog explodes → trigger goes away).
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Trying to build stationary focus too early instead of moving focus first.